Can’t stop Bloggin’…SE updated photo assault

Saturday, January 19th, 2008

As promised, some photos:


Alex the Sea Otter latching the Comet at Rocktown.  We quickly figured our new friend’s power animal was the sea otter for a variety of reasons, most notably of which were the manner in which he rolled over on his back and ate clams off his belly


The Orb…The FA of this was done many years ago by a SE local who discovered the line and worked it for many sessions.  To hide his efforts and discoruage other suitors, he would throw dirt, sticks and rocks on the rig after having cleaned all the chalk off.  Finally, having all but given up on it, he showed the line to a much stronger buddy of his.  This buddy flashed to very near the last move.  Gleaning beta and motivation from his friend’s near flash, SE local walked it next try.  Let this be a lesson: Share your projects….


Snowfox on a late afternoon send of Comet Center…Snowfox climbed really well all trip, despite not having climbed at all for two months.  She called it the Reminiscence Effect, but I think Snowfox’s climbing ability comes from the sun, like Vitamin D.  Sources are looking into this; I stand convinced.  When the sun was out Snowfox had endless energy and was quite giddy, able to give any problem multiple burns without rest. The minute the sun dipped behind a cloud or the horizon Snowfox’s regular shoes came back on and she would sit huddled and confused over by the crash pads, clutching a warm thermos of coffee. 


Though Wolverine climbed like his leg was caught in a trap, he did manage this pretty LRC highball called Deception.


One that got away: Tunnel Vision, Rocktown.  Despite focused and determined efforts, Snowfox was unable to sink her tiny teeth into the send.  The patient hunter vowed to return stronger and a few inches taller.


Contestants in the Gayest Man in the Universe competition, Wolverine and the Chimp


It was hotly contested, but the eventual winner was Chimp (Ronnie Jenkins); pictured here making the third ascent of Freedom Layback at Laurel

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mustard sauce link

Friday, January 18th, 2008


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For posterity’s sake…

Friday, January 18th, 2008

Just curious to see how many unrepeated problems are in the gunks…help me and tim out.  It would be nice to hold this list up at the end of next year and see what all has been done.  Granted several of these will fall into the “too obscure to bother” category.

Dark Foreboding Skies, Lactic Tactics, What Rhymes with Orange?, Big Bang, Ivory Wedge, Out of the Doghouse, Agent Orange, Lynn’s into Ryans, Dark Matter, Melville (traverse into Moby), Green Dragon, Himawari, PBJ Time, Into the Abyss, Diamond Night, Rabid Direct, Gorilla Mice, The Rack, Wood Boss, I am the Radar, Lair of the Minotaur, Godsend, Forbidden Forest (As well as the low strt), Pain of Love, Pinch Hitter, Sharma 13s, others??       Drew ( i know you did several unrepeated at single)? Kootz?(table rock or WW?)

As well as this, there are many problems with just one repeat: Fear, A Second Before Awakening, Angry Dragon, Cerberus, Razorburn, This Is What I Know About Being Gigantic, Rest in Peace, Sentimental Journey, Don’t Stop Believin’, Multiverse, Bloody Sunday, Unconditional, 36 Chambers, Night Knuckles, The Eraser, Rocket Pants, Pulled Apart By Horses, Parallel Lives, 845-187-KILL, Intimidating Shout, The Modular Calculus, Taken Advantage Of…more?

Interestingly enough, in other areas such as The Park, there are no unrepeated problems.  Obviously this may be because there are more people out there climbing at a hard level.  But perhaps this is also because when a new problem gets put up, everyone gloms to it.  In the Gunks everyone is already on to the next project as there seems to be no short supply of rock.

Please add input

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Big Chris Installment

Friday, January 18th, 2008

Anyone know this man? He may go by the net-name of “stuffedinurgirl”




Shots from last year of Big Chris in his more natural environment: Steep roof.  Chris had great vision out at Laurel and spied, cleaned and climbed several lines that are now mega-classic.  Most impressive was his ability to find inventive movement.  The crazy over-the-head toehooks and spin around campus moves that actually worked efficiently are testament to this.  Too bad there aren’t any shots of those…

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Ancient History…Vedauwoo, WY

Thursday, January 17th, 2008

Last May I made a brief stop in Vedauwoo, WY.  By brief I mean one day.  Despite broiling temps, Posemonkey and myself got to climb some classics.  These two pics represent two of the best problems Vedauwoo has to offer…If you ever go, a. expect to get lost and find nothing worthwhile, or b. get a tour from someone who knows.  

After hearing of people foolishly selecting option a, I chose b.

Thanks to Josh Helke and JJ for the tour.

4th? unroped ascent of DaisyCutter (with an out-of-site pit of doom down left) helke photo


Steep Classic Analog, or “Anal OG” as its locally known    jaeger photo



lots more pics on the way…hope you foolfaces can handle the madness

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it was a sign…

Thursday, January 17th, 2008


of things to come

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Ancient History Photos…Last Year at Laurel

Thursday, January 17th, 2008

These are not from this trip…trip photos will be up shortly

Just some oldskool pics showin’ newskool problems


4 Leaf Clovarete FA


4 Leaf Clovarete FA


I can dyno!!!! 


Sandblasting Skin FA    This problem has since broken/crumbled and became quite a bit easier


Sandblasting Skin, again





The last four shots were of Vaporlock, an amazingly delicious probem established by the same guy responsible for Nuclear War

Stay tuned for a more up-to-date photo post…

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Dirty Pics…MORE TO COME!!

Wednesday, January 16th, 2008

Interesting side noteBum Boy HP40Celestial Mechanics at LRC

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The Dirty South PWNS!!!!!!!!!!!111

Wednesday, January 16th, 2008

So forsaking conventional wisdom that would have you believe winter trips are meant for Bishop or Hueco, Myself and Clobot descended upon Chattanooga TN.  Besides being blessed with beautiful weather and ample stone, I was fortunate enough to get some things done without compromising my bum knee.  Cloe was fortunate enough to crush almost everything she touched despite not having climbed in two months, including burning me off on a crimpy LRC V7 that took two burns to my six or seven. 

But part of the beauty of the bouldering down south is that it isn’t about numbers, or ego, or who sent what….its about the experience.  Sounds a bit too hippy, but its true.   

Everyone should visit.  Its a lot like the New Paltz scene.  You get the same amount of respect if you are projecting V2 or flashing V10.  I like that.  Also, everybody seems to break balls, none of this “oh good job I can tell you tried so hard” tickling-the-butthole stuff you see out west.  In fact, my buddy Ronnie’s fiance Julie (most hospitable couple ever BTW)commented “ever since you left last time Ronnie has been showing his penis to everybody!” 

How touching…genital art is catching on

In addition to having the similar climbing peeps to the Gunx(well we don’t talk like we are one huntin’ hound away from having the family tree be a straight line), the adventurous vibe also permeates.  Last year, Matt Bosley and I rediscovered an area just twenty minutes north of LRC that wound up having incredible potential.  Situated in a gorgeous river valley, the main draw of the area is a forty foot deep sandstone cave that now has nearly twenty problems in it, including link-ups.  Makes the Master Bedroom look like the Welcome boulder.  Oh and amazing highballs by a roaring river on perfect 45 wall

This trip, we made a blitzkrieg hit on almost every notable area.  I am not sure I could pick a favorite place, but I would say each has its own distinct flava…like the gunks, but with a bit more variety in the rock.


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winter bouldering

Monday, January 14th, 2008

hungary peaches

Peaches on Hungry Hungry Hippos

mustard kootz

Kootz on Mustard Sauce

fabulos tim

TK on A Fabulous Formless Darkness

double connor

Connor on Gill Double Clutch

yikes pj

PJ on Yikes

unnamed drewz

Drew on Forget It Arete

Respekt the photo post.

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