Not In Dosage V: Not PCG

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldWs7nEaWZY

 watch in high quality bishes. BIG UP look out!!!

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Dosage V: PCG

PGC ANYONE??!?!?!

Can not wait till fall. Also prety excited about seein some pcg in the upcoming dosage video. gonna be awesome.

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Say What You Will About New Mexico…

but they call a spade a spade 

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UTAH. IDAHO.

GUNS.

UGH. GET FULL FACED.

 BOULDERS.

ROUTES.

so i went to utah and idaho recently. and those are some photos from the trip. pretty psyched about maple canyon. hopefully ill get back there in the fall.

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2001

so…

im gonna step back a bit here and take a brief look at the climbing world as ive seen it since i started climbing in 2001.

lots happened up to then, but 2001 was the year for me when everything started. 2001 was a pretty epic year as far as climbing is concerned. chris sharma climbed realization, the first dosage movie was put out, the roc trip had not yet come to the gunks, the pca was still cranking, and dave graham had just finished his inital tear through europe, sending action direct among other things. it was pretty rad to see that stuff in videos, only to take my first trip to bishop and actually see the mandala and soul slinger, two problems that distinctly stood out in my mind. at this point, it seemed like the just begun.

so where are we seven years later?

V15s have been done. 5.15s have been repeated. and everest has been topped out by soccer moms and naked people. and how about the number of people climbing double digit boulder problems? it is somewhere probably around 200% increase of that in 2001, when climbing a v10 in a single day would warrant a write up on neb.com or a mention in climbing magazines hot flashes. and thats still totally valid and bad ass even to todays standards. climbing is still growing at an extrodinary rate and there are new climbing gyms popping up everywhere. its kinda neat to look at how much change there’s been in those 7 years.

and yet the gunks is still underrated, overlooked, and stiff as hell.

its nice to know that some things havent changed. after having traveled to france, bishop, the south, utah, pawtuckaway, and plenty of small crags across the country, im pretty proud to call the gunks home. every year we’ve seemingly found and deveolped more areas, without an end in sight. people will still hail the buttermilks or hueco or rmnp as the best in the states.

and thats fine. we’ll keep the gunks to ourselves. im sure glad i moved here to ny. i wouldn’t have it any other way.

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