Q: Is Paul Jung the next Josh Lowell?

Monday, March 30th, 2009

A: See for yourselves in his latest…..

Balls Deep from paul jung on Vimeo.

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Lilly Boulders

Thursday, March 26th, 2009

Lilly Boulders 09 from paul jung on Vimeo.

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TONGUE OF SHANGO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thursday, March 26th, 2009

So I finally got a couple hundred pads and some people willing to spot the silver lake project last night.   Here’s the vid:


Shango is an African God, named with the history of silver lake in mind (part of the underground railroad, an all black cemetary, etc) and the following:

Ifa is a way of life based upon the principle of developing personal power. From a psychological point of view, personal power increases through the process of overcoming fear. It is the Ase of Shango that enables the godseeker to distinguish between the truth and the lie, and to face the consequences of making and acting upon that distinction. In this sense, lightning symbolizes the tongue of Shango that reveals to us the basis of our fear and offers us the opportunity to choose whether to proceed on the basis of truth, or on the basis of the lie or misperception. When lightning occurs, its brightness can penetrate our closed curtains and our closed eyes. It is not easy to deny the occurrence of the event. Likewise, when Orisa Sango reveals to a godseeker the fallacy and the reality of their perceptions, it is not easy to deny the revelation. And for this reason, there can be severe consequences to acting contrary to Shango’s gifts of illumination. Ifa teaches that blessings come to those who make choices that are consistent with their highest destiny. Within Yoruba culture it is understood that an individual’s highest destiny is based on those choices that build iwa-pele, which means good character.

Yeh i’m a puss and sussed the upper moves on tr a few weeks ago, but never did the full problem.  who me last night? one shot one kill, no warm up.


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“Most helpful to the 8a community have been: “

Wednesday, March 25th, 2009

figured we’d put this somewhere he officially reads:

Justin Jaeger 1716, Mike Williams 1257, Arne Grage 1253, Christophe Zehani 1216, Chris Frick 1051, Julio Kalango 885, Christoph Gabrysch 851

Tim, not even an honorable mention… so disappointing I’m sure.

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Dude Ranch video

Friday, March 20th, 2009

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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009


After a big weekend of repeats, its time to look forward to the shit that needs to get done. Plenty of lines out there. I know Andy has a mental catalog of projects, and has even made a list on here. But lets bring some of them back to the table.

Andy on the Freebird Proj

The Freebird Project, 1xr. Also a possibility, the Freebird right start. Freebird is most likely rather difficult. Extreme crimping, probably a big jump near the end to the other side of the pyramid, and a pit (not visible) thats got a lot of jumbled talus in it to the right. aka probably a bad landing. Contender for best undone line at 1xr?

Direct Start Secret Engines Proj

The Direct Start to Secret Engines (the left arete behind the tree with little chalk on it), Giants Workshop.

Possibility? Maybe something that could go down while spending time at, as Andy put it, “the new zero” of the Gunks, the Giants Workshop wall project.

three legged mare project

The Three Legged Mare Project, 3xr.

All the moves have been done, but by different people. Just waiting to be finished. Anyone? Anyone? Left hand crimp strength required…

The Glass Road Project

The Glass Road Project, 3xr.

There is probably a line going straight up the crack, but it will be difficult to protect the kicker at the bottom and the top out is suppose to be henious, but the left arete and then blank slab could be a much better line. Start as per the large undercling and move up towards the small triangle roof via the slab. Wrapping down on this later this week…

Also of note (with no pictures included):

The Andrew Zalewski Traverse into Ryan’s (ultimate lame font link up, probalbly clocking in at 8b++)

The White Dot Roof (access?)

The Beautiful Girls Wall Project (there’s another line that hasn’t gone there right?)

Anyone got other suggestions?

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Casual Side Note:

Sunday, March 15th, 2009

Steppin Razor saw its 2nd and 3rd ascent this weekend.


Oh. And Jason FLASHED Dark Foreboding Skies.




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LC – fri the 13th hangover aka, SAT the ideas aren’t bulletproof SEND TRAIN

Sunday, March 15th, 2009

Saturday found a giant crizew at lc, despite the closed parking lot.  After fumbling around on a few legit harder problems at the warm up area, we all made our way up to cry for help.  one shot one kill was the theme.  2 flashes, one second attempt send, and a first try repeat later, and Tim was mobile updating his 8a scorecard with 7a.

Typical for LC fluffing? Whatever.

Moving on.

After that, we all made the leisurely hike across the tallus to ideas are bulletproof.  Featured in Big Up’s tis the season video, this classic LC testpiece was the main target on Jason, the man, Danforth, and my radar.   Noticing the beta on the video, and from actually watching the FA go down, I was confident I knew what had to be done.  BUT I HAD NO CLUE SON!!!


Enter Simon from the jersey rock gym.

Near flash, (just went for the wrong finish jug), new beta, so straight forward and like DUH…

It opened our eyes.  Andy, for some reason or another, had developed a highly difficult  sequence leading to a crossed up match on the two high ear holds, when one could gain these holds with something so simple as a left heel hook, right hand undercling,  and a casual reach with the left hand to the left ear.  Pearch right foot up, and match right hand to right ear, little thrutch to the coke bottle hold, chizilllll son.

New beta + a couple of doods that weren’t too scared to fall = 3 repeats of this ultra mega classic 7C/+ (+ just put there to keep Andy from tearing up) high ball.

Here’s J getting the first repeat of the day:

img_0899.jpg img_0900.jpg





Kisses for Andy Salo.  We love you!

WRONG. (but still, sick as f$#K)


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Q: What is bouldering?

Friday, March 13th, 2009


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3XR Project

Friday, March 13th, 2009

I’ve started working on the low, but hard start to Mr. Beast. I’ve dubbed it the “Lion in a Coma” project. Put two days in on it so far, working out the beta on how to get to the lip, but getting much further seems rather difficult. There are a couple other methods I have yet to spend lots of time on, as I’m currently focusing on the method that I’ve made the most progress on. Will keep updating as the project progresses.

3xr project

 video here:

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